A NEW (AND FAR LIGHTER) TAKE ON COLESLAW
AN UNCATERED AFFAIR
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One of the strangest - and best - cookbooks that I’ve discovered on a year-long quest to read and review pretty much everything under the sun is called An Uncatered Affair: Cooking For Friends.
It turned up on the shelves of a culinary bookshop in Maine and it struck me because, despite being self-published, it was impeccably typeset and read incredibly well. Here’s how the store’s catalog listing described it:
A privately printed cookbook, by one of America's leading patrons of the arts, a Smith College alumna, creator of the Joan W. and Irving B. Harris Theater for Music and Dance, in Chicago's Millennium Park, and recipient of the National Medal of Fine Arts. Fine copy in gilt-stamped red cloth. No dust jacket, as issued. Scarce. [OCLC locates no copies].
This is about as close to a private cookbook as you can find, which is a shame - I’ve made four recipes from it, and they’ve all turned out impeccably well. It should be better known, because it’s terrific.
I’m including one recipe from my original review of the book here, and the two new ones that I just tried recently. They’re all worth making and eating. Just remember to really butter your bundt pan. — James Norton
Far too often, coleslaw is nothing more than a vehicle for mayonnaise. It’s heavy, it’s fatty, it’s underflavored, and it’s only really a vegetable in the context of sitting next to huge slabs of meat. Compared to an actual vegetable, it’s a bit depressing.
This twist on coleslaw is far, far lighter, relying on citrus juice and rind, scallions, bell peppers, sesame seeds, and raisins for its flavor. It’s a legitimate complement to heavier dishes, and doesn’t get too heavy or too soggy unlike most of its cousins out there. If you’ve been questing for a decent coleslaw (as I have) give this version a try. It’s different - in a good way.
COLE SLAW
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp orange juice
1/2 tsp grated lemon rind
1/2 tsp grated orange rind
2 Tbsp olive oil (or less)
1 Tbsp water
1/8 tsp cracked black pepper
1/8 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp salt
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp thinly sliced scallion greens
4 cups shredded Napa cabbage
1 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper
2 Tbsp sesame seeds
1 cup raisins
Whisk all ingredients together except cabbage, bell pepper, sesame seeds, and raisins. Toss cabbage and bell pepper together in medium bowl. Toss with dressing, sesame seeds, and raisins, and serve.